On guard: Sargeant’s Mess at the Tower of London review

New offering from Gordon Ramsey’s former
protege aims to fill a gap in London’s restaurant scene

Review

As British as the shrill shouts of “C’mon Tim” in SW19 every
July, visitors would be forgiven for regarding scotch eggs as
simply unimprovable. Yet, as Andy Murray would no doubt attest,
sometimes a new Scottish twist on a classic can serve up more than
few aces.

After a delightfully refreshing taramasalata, it was onto our
mains. While tourists will no doubt flock to the restaurant in
search of fish and chips, Sargeant’s aim to provide a destination
for the capital’s families and a meeting place for its young adults
means the menu isn’t overly crowded with traditional pub grub.

Still, my companion opted for chicken and chips, which is
probably now as classic a British dish as any other, and was served
with a simple gem salad covered in zingy garlic aioli. My own
toad-in-the-hole exuded warmth and nourishment, perfect for the
slightly wet and cold early summer we found ourselves in, just
before all the glorious sunshine arrived.

As any connoisseur knows, the success of a good toad-in-the-hole
is down to the quality of the Yorkshire pudding. Too stodgy and you
risk being unable to leave the dining table at the end of the meal,
but too light and it risks being overpowered by the sausage.

Thankfully, the Mess’s offering is just right – with a selection
of seasonal greens ensuring you can wolf down the rest of the plate
relatively guilt-free. But unfortunately the same cannot be said
for the other side dishes, with both our buttered carrots and
minted peas resembling another British tradition: the school
dinner.

Putting the sides to one side, it is time for pudding, which is
where the Mess really excels. My dark chocolate mousse and peanut
brittle is so delicious it barely touches my spoon, due to how fast
I’m shovelling it into my mouth. The chocolate meringue meanwhile,
prompts both my dining partner and me to wonder aloud whether the
other needs the loo, in the vain hope of finishing the pudding
before the absent party returns.

It remains to be seen whether Sargeant’s Mess will fill the gap
in the market for an unpretentious, good food-serving meeting place
across the country. But with this initial branch in the most
handsome of settings, they are off to a good start.

Sargeant’s Mess, The Wharf, St Katharine’s & Wapping,
London EC3N 4AB; sargeantsmess.com