Stir-up Sunday: how to make mini Christmas puddings

For many, finishing off

For many, finishing off a hearty, traditional roast dinner with
a rich slab of Christmas pudding is the final nail in the coffin in
a season of festive gluttony. But despite classic fruitcakes
falling by the wayside as lighter-textured sponge and cupcakes
become the tastes du jour, this once-a-year treat remains a staple
of the British Christmas table.

The very first traces of a recipe can be found in medieval
manuscripts from the 15th century, with a savoury concoction that
calls for chunks of beef and minced onion cooked alongside the more
customary mix of aromatic spices, raisins and currants, while the
dessert didn’t take shape in a form recognisable to modern eyes –
and tastes – until the Victorian era.

Before its association with Christmas, it was referred to as
plum pudding and came to be symbolic of Britain, not least because
many of the essential ingredients were sourced through trade routes
made possible by the expansion of the Empire.

Since then, it has become a staple that crosses the class
divide, even making an appearance on the Cratchit family table in
the Dickens classic A Christmas Carol. And as with any
centuries-old creation, it has its fair share of traditions and
superstitions.

The last Sunday before advent is Stir-Up Sunday (this year it
falls on 21 November), the designated day to make the pud. It was
customary for each member of the household to stir the mix and make
a wish, with a hidden silver sixpence bringing the lucky finder
wealth and good fortune for the coming year.

This year, ditch the supermarket shortcuts and take expert
advice from Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth, as he shares his
take on the Christmas classic.  

Ingredients

• 175g currants
• 175g sultanas
• 140g glace cherries
• 50g mixed peel
• 50g flaked almonds
• zest of one orange
• zest of one lemon
• one carrot, peeled and grated
• 150ml brandy
• 50 triple sec liqueur 
• 175g light muscovado sugar
• 175g breadcrumbs
• 125g self-raising flour
• 1 tsp mixed peel
• ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
• 175g butter
• two eggs, beaten
• regular cream or Cornish clotting cream (to
  serve)

Method

• Soak the dried fruit with the brandy and triple sec, and leave
  the combination for at least a few days before making the puddings.
  The longer you soak, the better the results! It’s not unusual to
  soak dried fruit a year before you make mince pies or Christmas
  puddings. You can also make the puddings on Stir Up Sunday and then
  feed them with booze in the lead up to Christmas.
• Mix the fruit, almonds, citrus zest and carrot in a large bowl.
  Cover and leave to soak. If you want to add an extra glug of brandy
  to make the puddings even boozier, this won’t affect the recipe and
  will help you achieve a slightly more moist pudding.
• Mix all the dry ingredients together, then grate in the butter,
  add the eggs and stir.
• Grease the pudding moulds with butter (if you have caramelised
  brown butter this will add more depth and flavour to the pudding).
  Fill each mould with 80g of mix and then tin foil each mould.
• The best way to cook the pudding is by steaming it in an oven,
  or you can place it in a pan with water and cook with a lid on
  for 45 minutes. Make sure the pan doesn’t dry by adding more water
  throughout the cooking.
• Serve with pouring cream or, my favourite, Cornish clotted
  cream.